Spice up your burgers with a little berbere
Imagine the best Southern barbecue. cooked up in northern Africa.
That’s what this week’s ingredient — the Ethiopian seasoning blend known as berbere — tastes like. And it’s as good as it sounds.
Berbere is the flavor backbone of Ethiopian cooking, a cuisine built around heavily seasoned meats and stews served with a spongy flatbread called injera. Berbere ties all of that together, doing duty as a dry rub for meats, a seasoning for stews, lentils and grains, even as a tableside condiment.
As with so many traditional seasoning blends, what goes into berbere can vary by region, town, even by house. But most versions begin with a base of ground chilies, ginger, fenugreek, cumin, cloves, coriander, cardamom, black pepper and salt.
The result is a fiery, bright red blend that tastes equal parts barbecue, curry and Southwestern steak rub. It sounds kind of crazy, but that’s a flavor combination that just begs to be in so many classic American dishes.
In the U.S., berbere most often is found as a dry powder, though it sometimes is a paste in Ethiopia. The powder can be added directly to just about anything, or heated briefly with oil and minced garlic and onion. The latter makes a great starter for chili or pulled pork.
You’ll find berbere at just about any online or bricks-and-mortar spice shop, as well as at many larger grocers (check the international section as well as the spice aisle).
When you use it, take it easy. This stuff is deliciously spicy, so add a little, then taste and adjust from there.
The good news is that you don’t need to know squat about Ethiopian food (though it’s totally worth getting to know) to enjoy berbere. Use is as a steak rub, in meatballs and meatloaf, or as rub for roasted chicken.
This technique for using chopped (rather than ground) chicken keeps the burgers moist and flavorful. The prosciutto mixed into it helps, too. Be warned that when you form the patties, they will be very moist and messy. But once they hit the grill, they will hold together without trouble.
If you’d rather used ground turkey for convenience, this same seasoning blend will be delicious in that, too.
Heat a grill to medium. Oil the grates, or coat them with cooking spray.
In a large bowl, whisk together the egg, garlic powder, berbere, black pepper and salt. Set aside.
In a food processor, combine the chicken and prosciutto. Pulse until the meat is well chopped but still chunky, about 10 seconds total. Scrape the sides of the bowl and pulse again if any large pieces remain unchopped.
Transfer the meat to the bowl with the egg mixture, then mix well. Form the meat into 4 loose patties. They will be moist and not hold together well.
Use a spatula to carefully place the burgers on the grill and cook, covered, for 4 to 5 minutes. Flip the burgers — they should be firm enough to move easily now — and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, or until a thermometer reads 165 F at the center of the burgers.
Top each burger with a quarter of the cheese, then serve on a bun.
J.M. Hirsch is the national food editor for The Associated Press. He is author of the recent cookbook, “High Flavor, Low Labor: Reinventing Weeknight Cooking.” His Off the Beaten Aisle column also appears at FoodNetwork.com. Follow him on Twitter http://twitter.com/JM_Hirsch.