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Saturday, November 7, 2009
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Owner heading south and leaving Cheeks and all of the warm memories behind Cheeks Saloon, south of Crosslake on County Road 3, will have a new owner before year's end Senior Reporter CROSSLAKE - On a distinctive stretch of road that glides between Pelican and Horseshoe lakes, Cheeks Saloon etched out a reputation for burgers and fries and fellowship.
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Over the years, Cheeks Saloon expanded its building, added a liquor license and improved its kitchen, becoming known for its burgers and fries. Brainerd Dispatch/Renee Richardson
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Now, after 19 years of ownership, John Steen is ready to head south where Florida's temperate climate beckons with the promise of winter golf. It'll be a change from the early days when he slept on the pool table. A bartender and manager who grew up in Brooklyn Park and worked in the Twin Cities metro area, Steen was drawn to the lakes area by a small classified ad in the Star Tribune. It promised a good buy on a roadside neighborhood bar.
Steen had only been to the area a couple of times and for one of those trips he was 6 years old. But the idea was appealing. The reality was a business that needed considerable work as did a rustic cabin a few yards away.
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John Steen, who has owned Cheeks Saloon between Brainerd and Crosslake for 19 years, is selling the business and heading south for the winter. Steen said it's bittersweet to leave the business he built up, but it's time to move on. Brainerd Dispatch/Renee Richardson
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The business was called the Anglers Edge. Steen purchased the property in July 1990. Some days the sales from the till amounted to $20. For the first few years, he was the only employee. Then 34, Steen said he had the energy to work the long hours demanded of the job.
In the early years, the bar served set-ups where patrons brought in their own bottles. Steen added 800 square feet to the building, got a liquor license and expanded the kitchen. Steen said Cheeks built a good reputation on its hamburgers and fries, which drew customers. In June of 2006, the beefy burgers and ample fries were written up in Mpls.St.Paul Magazine's Best of Summer issue.
The burgers are put into patties by hand, seasoned and slow cooked on a grill. The potatoes are homecut into french fries. During Steen's tenure, Cheeks served 150,000 burgers and went through 300,000 pounds of potatoes for french fries.
"Not quite like McDonald's, but not bad for a small place like this," Steen said.
The small place, which seats about 100, has a neighborhood feel. In the past, Steen said neighbors brought potluck dishes to share. A 500 card club has met at the saloon every Thursday for 19 years and a bridge card group started about four years ago. On New Year's Eve, Steen would sing "New York, New York."
In the glory years of snow, Steen said he'd have 50 to 100 snowmobiles outside as riders came in to warm up and have a burger. Then came the years where the traditional snowy winters were just a memory. Also affecting business was the lowering of the state's legal alcohol limit for drivers from .10 to .08 percent and the smoking ban.
"I'm going to be pleased to venture on to other things," Steen said. Cheeks employs about 12 people, most part time, with the number growing to 16 to 20 during the peak season.
And where did the name for the saloon come from? When Steen bought the property he came up with a girlfriend.
"She had really nice cheeks," he said and smiled. And Steen had a nickname of "sweet cheeks." Between the two, the name took hold. The new owner, Ray McCabe, will keep the name, Steen said. Other plans are to gut the house Steen has called home and turn it into an off-sale business.
"I think that will be a wonderful asset to the business," Steen said.
On Nov. 15, Cheeks will have a going-away party of sorts with food, prizes and entertainment. Photos from the last 19 years of customers will be on display. And Steen may sing "New York, New York" one more time for a finale with the D.J.
Looking back, Steen said the decision to become his own boss and buy the business was a good one even when it meant working seven days a week.
"It's bittersweet in a way," he said of leaving. "The clientele here has been a very good group of people. I've got some real dedicated employees, too. Some have been here 14 years."
So even though the idea of a winter in Florida is appealing, Steen said he's taking something of the Brainerd lakes area with him. "There have just been some very wonderful memories here."
RENEE RICHARDSON may be reached at renee.richardson@brainerddispatch.com or 855-5852.
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